Diamond cuts
Diamond shapes: An introduction to brilliant variety
When it comes to selecting the perfect diamond for your jewellery, the shape plays a pivotal role. Not only do stone shapes dictate the design of your piece, but also its symbolism and wearability. In this discussion, we delve into the various diamond shapes and factors to consider when choosing a stone shape.
Diamond shape trends: classic shapes vs. modern cuts
The realm of jewellery is perpetually evolving, with trends in stone shapes being no exception. Although it's rare for new cuts to emerge and the round diamond has historically been the most favoured shape, there has been a noticeable shift in the popularity of different stone shapes over the years. The advent of lab-grown diamonds has made shapes other than the brilliant-cut diamond more sought after, as these are more affordable than their natural counterparts. Besides the round diamond, or the brilliant-cut diamond, we encounter what are termed fancy shapes. These will be discussed further below.
Classic and traditional diamond shapes
Round, brilliant-cut diamond
This is the most renowned stone shape, known for its versatility, thus making it the most popular choice for engagement rings because it is suitable for almost any jewellery design, and because the brilliant cut is regarded as the most optimal cut.
If the diamond is expertly cut, its 57 or 58 facets ensure that light is captured in the most optimal manner, giving the stone a magnificent sparkle, also referred to as the diamond's fire. Sometimes people mistakenly use 'brilliant' as a synonym for diamond, which is not entirely correct since a diamond can come in different cuts. 'Brilliant' specifically means the brilliant-cut diamond.
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley was delighted by her partner Jason Statham with a splendid five-carat brilliant-cut diamond when he asked for her hand in marriage.
DiamondsByMe boasts a wide selection of engagement rings with round diamonds. If this cut is your preferred choice, do explore the various designs.
Intrigued by the origin of the brilliant-cut diamond? Continue reading for the history behind the most optimal cutting technique.
Emerald-Cut Diamond
A glamorous diamond shape is the emerald-cut stone with its rectangular form, truncated pavilion, and corner points.
The 57 facets are arranged in steps, giving you that tiered appearance when viewing the stone. Unlike the infinite depths found in a radiant-cut diamond, the emerald cut offers a stunning, elegant stone shape.
The quality of an emerald-cut diamond is paramount due to the cutting style, which makes any imperfection within the stone visible. Thus, it is recommended to opt for at least a VS quality to guarantee a beautifully clear stone.
A famous wearer of an emerald-cut diamond was the late Princess Grace, better known perhaps as film star Grace Kelly, who sported a diamond of a remarkable 10.5 carats. A more modern possessor of an emerald-cut diamond is Beyoncé.
Keen to view our models? Then consider our engagement rings with emerald diamonds.
Cushion-Cut Diamond
The cushion-cut diamond may at first glance be mistaken for a brilliant-cut stone. It's only upon a second look that one notices the difference.
Yet, it is more akin to a variant on the princess cut than the brilliant cut. The stone's large facets lend it an added brilliance. As the name suggests, the diamond is cut in the shape of a cushion, which, despite the stone's hardness, imparts a softness to its appearance.
This stone shape is, therefore, eminently suitable for a romantic, vintage piece of jewellery. DiamondsByMe has a wide range of engagement rings with cushion diamonds. Be astonished by the splendour of this beautiful stone.
A notable wearer of a 3.0-carat cushion-cut diamond from Botswana is Meghan Markle.
Oval-Cut Diamond
The oval diamond with 57 facets radiates a magnificent timelessness and lends itself to a variety of designs. Its cut closely resembles that of the brilliant cut, but the stone's elongated shape and larger table cause the oval diamond to appear optically larger. Moreover, its extended shape tends to elongate the appearance of the finger.
This stone shape truly comes into its own in elegant and traditional designs, yet with a unique twist. Princess Catherine is adorned with the engagement ring of her late mother-in-law, Lady Diana, set with a magnificent oval-cut stone. This Lady Diana ring, or halo ring, is also featured in DiamondsByMe's collection, where the oval stone is encircled by a series of smaller diamonds that complement the centre stone beautifully.
As a simple solitaire ring with an oval diamond serving as the eye-catcher, this cut is an outstanding choice. Blake Lively, for example, sports a splendid oval diamond of about 12 carats, set in a simple mount with a slender band, thereby accentuating the diamond even more. Should the oval diamond catch your fancy, do explore our engagement rings with oval diamond.
Pear-Shaped Diamond
The elegance and refinement of the pear diamond cut are among the reasons for its popularity.
The pear shape is frequently featured in vintage designs, encircled by smaller diamonds, lending an air of elegance and sophistication with its distinctive shape and 58 facets. For the pear-shaped stone, the quality of the cut is crucial to achieving a magnificent sparkle. As the pear shape has a pointed end, it is usually set in a setting that encloses the tip to protect it from damage or cleavage. Therefore, the pear-shaped diamond is commonly found in a halo setting, where the surrounding stones frame and safeguard the pear-shaped diamond.
The most renowned pear-shaped diamond resides in the sceptre part of the British Crown Jewels, the Cullinan diamond, weighing an impressive 530 carats!
Interested in seeing how DiamondsByMe integrates the pear-shaped diamond into its jewellery? Then view our collection of engagement rings with pear diamond.
Modern diamond shapes
Princess cut diamond
With its square or rectangular form and pointed corners, this diamond shape is perfectly suited for contemporary jewellery with sleek lines.
This shape features 58 or 76 facets, offering a magnificent brilliance and depth. The princess cut visually appears larger than a brilliant cut but is typically more cost-effective, as the cutting process involves less wastage of the stone, resulting in a higher carat weight retained.
While this stone is listed under modern diamond shapes, a princess-cut stone can equally adorn a classic halo setting or a vintage design beautifully. As a solitaire, the princess cut is an excellent choice.
Intrigued by this versatile stone? Have a look at our engagement rings with princess diamond.
Asscher Cut Diamond
Upon viewing this square diamond shape with its 58 facets, one is immediately reminded of art deco-esque designs. Art Deco, of course, harks back to a bygone era, with the Asscher cut reaching its zenith of popularity in the 1920s. This style has been rediscovered and is very much in vogue once again. Due to its geometric appearance, the Asscher diamond is set to gain in popularity. Thus, we have classified this cut under modern cuts.
The Asscher cut was devised in 1902 by the Amsterdam diamond cutter Joseph Asscher. It comprises 58 facets and presents an octagonal view from above. The corners are not sharp, reducing the likelihood of the stone chipping.
The most renowned Asscher cut diamond is the 33.19ct Krupp diamond. Elizabeth Taylor was the esteemed owner of this gem, which featured in her engagement ring. A current bearer of a 3.5 carat Asscher cut diamond is Pippa Middleton.
Explore our engagement rings with Asscher diamond here.
Trillion Cut Diamond
The trillion cut is also a cutting style devised by the Asscher brothers. It shares a similar type of cut to the Asscher cut but is fashioned into a triangular shape. This was patented by the Henry Meyer Diamond Company of New York in 1962. The patent has now expired, allowing this name to be used for all triangular cuts. To ensure the authenticity of the genuine trillion cut, we always accompany it with an official GIA certificate.
Radiant Cut Diamond
At first sight, the radiant cut diamond might be mistaken for an emerald or emerald-cut stone, with which it is occasionally confused. At first, the shape appears the same.
However, the difference becomes glaringly obvious upon closer inspection. The cutting method makes the radiant diamond, with its 70 facets, seem astonishingly deep. However, its cutting style is more akin to that of the princess cut. The major distinction is that the radiant diamond features rounded corners, making it slightly less susceptible to damage than the sharp corners of the princess cut.
The radiant stone shape symbolises glamour and audacity and has surged in popularity recently. The cut itself is among the more recent innovations. The radiant cut was only introduced in 1976 by Henry Grossbard, a master diamond cutter who fled Austria for the United States during the Second World War. Following the invention of the radiant cut, he established the Radiant Cut Diamond Company, aimed at promoting the radiant cut. This endeavour has clearly succeeded, as this exquisite cut has become a mainstay.
Check out our engagement rings with radiant diamond.
Heart-Shaped Diamond
Say it with shapes... the heart shape is, of course, the quintessential symbol of romance, and the diamond signifies durability. Marrying the two creates a perfect choice for expressions of everlasting love.
Though not as commonly chosen for a stone shape in jewellery, it is nonetheless spectacular. A magnificently romantic stone with a unique sparkle. The heart shape has been around for several centuries, first mentioned in a letter from the Duke of Milan to Nicodemo in 1463.
The heart cut, with its 59 facets, presents a real challenge for the diamond cutter. Not only must it ensure the diamond's optimum sparkle, but special care must also be taken to achieve symmetry, ensuring both sides of the heart maintain equal fullness and height.
Avril Lavigne was proposed to in Paris, the city of love, with a 14-carat heart-shaped diamond. Intrigued by this ultimate symbol of love in a piece of jewellery? Then explore our engagement rings with heart diamond.
Marquise Cut Diamond
A stone shape not commonly encountered, yet incredibly bold and striking, is the marquise cut. Its oval form, tapering to points at both ends, bears resemblance to a small boat.
Similar to the brilliant-cut stone, the marquise cut possesses 57 facets, providing stunning brilliance. Its extended form is especially flattering for wide and fine fingers, as it visually elongates the finger. The marquise cut is ideal for designs with a halo or halo setting, where the side stones enhance the distinctive shape and add even more sparkle. Notably, the tapered corners of the marquise cut are more susceptible to damage. A halo or halo setting offers protection with side stones.
Among the most celebrated wearers of a marquise diamond in her engagement ring was fashion icon Jackie Kennedy.
Factors to consider when selecting a stone shape
Hardness and durability of diamonds
A primary consideration in choosing a stone shape is its hardness and durability. Certain gemstones are renowned for their resilience against daily wear. Of these, the diamond is the most prominent. Being the hardest gemstone, it can only be cut by another diamond. Due to its hardness, and thereby its longevity, the diamond is exceptionally popular in engagement rings as it symbolises eternity. Its robust nature makes it less prone to damage, thus considered a sustainable gemstone capable of lasting indefinitely. However, each cutting style has its advantages and disadvantages. Shapes like the princess, pear, and marquise cuts are more susceptible to damage due to their acute angles. For pear and heart-shaped diamonds, symmetry is crucial for achieving the best sparkle. In the case of the emerald cut, it's imperative to opt for a stone of very high quality as this cut can highlight any imperfections.
Delving deeper into the sustainability of diamonds, a distinction is made between natural and lab-grown diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds, developed in laboratories, impose less strain on the environment than mining for natural diamonds, making them a popular sustainable choice. The quality of lab-grown diamonds is indistinguishable from that of natural diamonds, although the price difference for larger stones can be quite substantial. In terms of cost, fancy shapes offer a more economical option, hence their growing popularity.
Symbolism behind stone shapes
When it comes to the symbolism associated with diamonds, there isn’t specific symbolism linked to the cut, but rather to diamonds as gemstones, representing purity and eternal love. For an added touch of romance, the heart-shaped diamond is an ideal choice.
The evolution of the brilliant-cut diamond shape
The stone shapes familiar to us today have evolved over centuries. From 1400 to 1500, jewelers recognised the potential of raw diamonds to become exquisite stones with proper craftsmanship. Upon realising that raw diamond crystals were octagonal, they created the diamond's first cutting style - a shape with eight facets, now also referred to as the point cut. These initial steps marked the beginning of the journey to reveal the diamond’s allure.
The cutters of those times were not idle, for in the ensuing years, it was realised that the point cut could be enhanced by creating a flat surface, known as the table.
This was accomplished by sawing off a portion of the octagon. To enhance the diamond's resistance to cracking during cutting, a culet was introduced, also referred to as the base of the stone. It is the smallest and lowest facet of the diamond.
The Flemish inventor and diamond cutter Lodewyk van Berken deduced that for a diamond to exhibit the most splendid sparkle, it had to be symmetrical.
The art of diamond cutting grew increasingly innovative, bolstered by the accumulated knowledge on diamond processing and the progressively modern tools at hand. During the 16th and 17th centuries, additional facets were added, leading to the creation of the Rosette cut with its triangular facets. The Peruzzi cut, featuring as many as 33 facets, was also unveiled.
The modern brilliant shape ultimately came into being thanks to the cutting-edge tools available in the 20th century and the mathematical research conducted by the Belgium-born engineer Marcel Tolkowsky.
Coming from a Jewish family of diamond cutters from Poland, he possessed unparalleled expertise in diamond cutting. In 1919, he devised a mathematical method and introduced the market to the brilliant-cut diamond with 58 facets. Nowadays, about 75% of diamond jewellery features brilliant-cut diamonds.
With a deeper understanding of the various diamond cuts, we invite you to explore our website's extensive collections. Each piece of jewellery on our site can be tailored to your preferences and budget.
Enjoy designing your unique piece of jewellery!